Learning to install these is great--you're about to embark on the next great adventure of advanced troubleshooting. You are aware of the idle-up problem. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2JpHlS1ymBc, If this is your first visit, be sure to Running the vacuum advance and of course I time it disconnected. The weather in Ct has finally improved and I have put about 60 miles on the car with the Sniper system. If it is then something is commanding the ECU to open the IAC. My sniper is doing two thingsFirst issue, the idle is set at 800 and will idle fine, then There is a glitch in the system. But he kept having problems so eventually he did a complete check and then he found the problem. And so glad you guys are enjoying the Sniper EFI system. School's out for spring break this week though so I'm covering for employees on vacation. I put sniper on in hopes to be able to just turn key and start without fumbling with pedal to keep it going and to correct idle drop when ac kicks on. Bolt-on carburetor style EFI for your classic car or truck. If you have any questions about the car/setup let me know. I drove it a bunch more yesterday afternoon/evening and the same thing happened several times. My car will now start when its cold, but after about 30 seconds the idle drops down and begins to run like crap. Then you can take a close look at the IAC and see if it is opening. May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ. Nothing against Holley's method but I need to keep things simple and I do that by eliminating the effect of the IAC entirely while getting the idle speed adjusted. The broad consensus has been that the Sniper is an amazingly straight-forward install and starts and tunes as expected. Going back to what you said. Hello Chris. !I called Holley today, and before I could even described the symptoms the Yes, it will talk to you--but not with words. Yes, it will talk to you--but not with words. I also tried changing roc/map to 8 from 15 again no change at all.My ve table is smooth and tuned I even changed my AFR to 13.5 from 14.2 and no change at all. Definitely would have went with you guys. Also if I give it a After the start process, If the idle speed is higher than the target idle then the IAC should begin closing as long as the TPS is below 2%. Once it decides to come back down, it does so with no issue. It starts cold fine, its just when its hot. Good If I were there in person I would test the function of the IAC (see this article.) Physially manipulating the linkage by hand will generally reveal if you have a sticking linkage that is preventing the TPS from returning from zero. I followed the instructions and set the IAC to 2-9% when warm with idle at 850 RPM. Generally, one of two things: a stuck throttle or noise on the TPS signal. There's a procedure there I can share with you if you'd like.. It's all part of the adventure! I would suggest you take a look at that if you haven't already. TP range is normal goes up to about 90% with throttle pedal to the floor. Fortunately, I have an article that goes into this in some detail. By the way, this is a new installation on a 69 Camaro, stock 350, dual sync, etc. Repeat until that stumble goes away, and then try a bit more throttle. You are looking in the right area but I would probably not change the ROC blanking. I have seen this become blocked with debris / dirt in the fuel system and cause a high fuel pressure condition . Once you so this, and after you have your CAN-to-USB harness attached to your laptop with the Sniper software, you can see precisely the cells where the system is operating when the bog occurs. I did check for the lightning under the hood but all was well. Also, I was seriously rich at idleso rich it hurt your eyes. :-). Comp. I got it home, checked it all over, everything is hooked up correctly. You advise would be greatly appreciated. I'd really appreciate some help. I have certainly seen this before on other fuel injected vehicles when hot. Both answers you've received greatly oversimplify the truth in favor of the answerer. I installed a sniper efi system on my 1969 Camaro. Turned it off and on again. It is temperature dependent but 30 is commonly where you find it. Initial Baseline Idle Speed Screw Setting, http://forums.holley.com/showthread.neral-IAC-Info, http://documents.holley.com/199r11031r.pdf, https://forums.holley.com/showthread-Idle-Solution, If this is your first visit, be sure to It turns out that some of the Snipers are shipping with the minus 40-degree setting drastically lower, as shown in the following image. Getting the throttle blades and IAC to work together will keep your fuel injected hot rod running smooth and predictable. Properly configured, the Sniper does a fantastic job of responding to the transition from Park to Drive. Holley EFI Electronic Fuel Pressure GaugeI think its a little ridiculous that I cant see fuel pressure on the display even though its measuring it but whatever. Several good bits here. If either of these is not the case it must be remedied.After you have done this then you might want to involve Holley Tech Support about the TPS, or it may be easier/faster just to visit the local auto parts store and pick up a new TPS and install it. First, check to make sure that the IAC is properly mounted and connected. Thank you in advance for your help and providing us rookies with your If you look down and your TPS is 2% then either your throttle is stuck slightly open (which itself will cause the idle-up) or RFI riding on the TPS signal has caused the ECU to see the throttle as open and, as a result, open the IAC to the hold position. The following are status commands and diagnostics for sensor and various parameters in the Holley software. The only way to do this is by installing a mechanical fuel pressure gauge. Holley Sniper IAC Problem 04-26-2018, 11:30 AM Hello. This minimizes installation time and packages really well on a diverse group of engine applications. Idle quality is great, RPM is good, sometimes IAC is jumping around from 35 to 60. Robust, feature-rich multi-port EFI systems offer easy plug-and-play late-model V8 engine swaps. I would disregard any correlation between idle control between the Stock and Street/Strip setups. I appreciate everything you are saying. I keep doing that with the same result. Thanks. The distributor was loose. This is a mighty big subject for a blog post reply, I should probably start doing some videos on this. While you have over 200 miles on the system, you must realize that in the part of the map where the ECU finds itself during lanches you might only have a total of 5-10 seconds in any given cell. It might be necessary to insulate or re-route your fuel lines if this can't be solved any other way. Then it will ramp down to 1200 but will not return to idle. I did change the -40 thing also. IAC looks good once it finally s fires. Ensure there isn't a vacuum leak causing the IAC Position to drop to 0%. After talking to Holley tech, I replaced the factory regulator and problem solved.The regulator had what appeared to be a film or something almost clear embedded in some of the screen, maybe from factory or from install, but that was my issue.PS : this page and other forums have helped me a lot. Im not sure what its doing, have messed with after start fuel, fuel at cranking. You can manually set it 57 after you run the Wizard if required. I have driven car about 200 miles. Once engine is warmed up been driving for awhile. Member List; Calendar; Forum; Holley EFI; Sniper EFI; If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. That's not the IAC Hold Position, it's a percentage value. Don't make any changes more than about 10% and keep the same basic shape as the original (High/flat below 20 degrees, sloped downward up to 180 degress, and then flat again above that.) While adjusting the screw if the TPS position reads begins to read higher than 0% cycling the ignition switch will recalibrate the TPS back to zero. Across the board, all of our customers say how impressed they were that it started and ran right out of the box just by following the simple installation instructions. If it is already adding fuel, it may be worth expanding this into the area where the tip-in is occuring (and where there is no learning occuring. Cycling the power to the Sniper EFI would cure the problem, but not prevent it from coming back. Key, I believe, in this success is solid connections, resistance-free signal and ground paths, and solid RFI rejection. Switch power to the Sniper on and crank the engine. We offer some tips to help with that. What must remain foremost in your mind is that the only thing that can cause the idle to increase is additional air getting into the engine. Holly offers a very nice Analog-Style Fuel Pressure Gauge that is another option. My problem with the sniper is the whistling and hard throttle pedal, I have a 700r tranny with a kick down cable. It's called tuning. But if you can datalog the bog you can know much more precisely what is happening. Could be a bad IAC motor, replace it and see if that solves the problem. The Sniper Quick-Start Manual provides the following instructions for setting the idle. So as much as I can I have been taking off real slow and let it fall on itself to try to learn and its not learning its way out of it. Now I have most of the bugs worked out it runs fine on the highway and around town it's just the idle. I chased that gremlin for about three weeks and was convinced I had a bad throttle cable. The AFR was pretty consistent around 13. Pricing was reasonable, shipping was prompt and Chris helped me with a wiring question during my install. I have driven it a few times maybe 100 miles or so. It sounds to me like it is way retarded.In the event that the timing is right then take a look at your AFR--the actual AFR, not the target. I would suspect something is coming loose causing a stop to the EFI system/Fuel flow. Last night I tried setting the IAC and had the same problems after it's warmed up. It could be that you've left a vacuum port unplugged, it could be that the throttle plates are misaligned (unlikely), it could be that your IAC is not closing properly. About two minutes after I get it set at 850 & 5%, it has progressed to 100%. Thanks for any info./insight you can provide, Mark. Chris, I recently installed my Sniper and have an intermittent idle problem. (Don't drive and watch--get a helper!) It is simply for the benefit of the user. If the IAC is zero, and if putting your finger over the IAC port doesn't lower it, then it's not the IAC circuit. I think that the more important point is that Holley kept sending him units until everything was working. (It should be at or near 60 PSI at idle. Earl's Mechanical Fuel Pressure GaugeI could use that for a quick troubleshooting for 1/3rd the cost of the Holley one. I will turn it up some more.Is this something that the ECU will learn? It's pretty hard to get the header tubes glowing at idle with a lean AFR. This will go a long way to improving your fuel map without manually adjusting the acceleration enrichment. Holley will take a look and tell you you have RFI and wish you good luck in finding it. It shuts off when coming to a stop sign, at any cruising speed and romdomly at idle in park but never when excelerating. In the datalog the engine is running at 1400 RPM, TPS is zero, IAC is zero, CTS is 185F but it's in Open Loop. idle at 1100 on the "stock" file it's better with street strip.The IAC counts will be at zero. Engine has never stalled with Sniper system, once placed in Drive it just goes!!! It sounds a little different from mine, since it commands a 1300 or so increase intermittently. Why is this? Now that you've installed at least four Snipers it is going to be imperative that you learn to create and read datalogs. Its just at low speeds, not sure if its loading up or leaning out. As always, I recommend great restraint in changing any of the parameters until a significant amount of learning has taken place. But nothing beats a good solid gut-check The IAC is hanging open and not really at 0. itself out and hold idleeventually stalling. I have now determined with the TPS the noise correlates with the opening of the secondary butterflies. Chris thank you for the info. Hello Chris. They always responded to my questions with guidance that helped me choose the right system for me. I followed the instructions and set the IAC to 2-9% when warm with idle at 850 RPM. Start by doing the fastest start you can that doesn't bog. I have it set at 650 and it idles anywhere from 590 to 700.
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